Scott and Fuller in the 1960's published a study that offered dog owners knowledge of the existence of a sensitive period for socialisation in puppies. In the case of domestic dogs, the socialisation window closes somewhere between three and five months of age, depending on the breed and individual make-up. Easy socialisation drying up around four and a half months of age in majority of cases.  Having your puppy meet other puppies, adult dogs, other companion animals, humans of different shapes, sizes, ages and looks and exposing them to handling and equipment such as collars and leads is to prime them for the life ahead of them.

A HAPPY LIFE
The importance of a critical period for socialisation is hard to overestimate. Socialisation should be thought as priming your dog for a happy life! If for instance, a puppy doesn’t get enough exposure to men and beards, before the socialisation clock runs out, the risk for fear responses and aggression directed at men with beards runs higher for that dog as an adult. Also, as dogs are excellent discriminators, so adequate exposure to women or eight-year olds, for example, does not guarantee a generalisation to men or two- year old kids. So it is really important to expose your puppy to as wide a social sphere as possible as the more about life with us that they find normal or positive  during this period , the easier it will be to take them out and about and expose them to forms to forms of enrichment  such as walks and play and holidays and the more likely they are to enjoy them!  Socialisation really means getting the puppy used to anything it may have to encounter in later life, including challenges such as car rides, veterinary exams, cats, traffic, football games, stairs or grandma in a wheelchair.

​BENEFITS
There are many benefits to heavy and planned socialisation.  First one is obvious in that the more you do the fewer things you’ll miss. The second advantage has a wider effect in that the more your puppy encounters novel situations and gets over it, the more he has an underlying trait of stability and his overall confidence grows.  The more puppy hood experiences your puppy must draw on, the more resilient the overall character. With this character even if you miss something with your socialisation they will be handled more easily by your adult dog. A much more passive approach to socialisation, just a few visits to a local park and maybe outside a supermarket, is inadequate for some dogs. Aim for a systematic approach which is written down and is varied each week in terms of locations and stimuli and does NOT end at week 16!! Socialisation especially for some breeds is part of their life long after the critical period ends. It is beyond beneficial for your dog as you end up with a dog who is at reduced risk for fearfulness and biting, but one who is also much less chronic stress as an adult. Your aim is to get a relaxed, confident, solid adult temperament by actively increasing the number of strongly positive experiences. It is like putting money in the bank!!

TOP TIPS 
Two of my top tips in any socialisation involving people, is hand feeding. Rather than just exposing your puppy to young children, have the young children feed the puppy small tasty treats. Each little treat builds up more money in the bank for young children. Also, if you have a predatory type of dog who are addicted to toys or balls, is to have people in the category you’re trying to cover (say men with beards) then engage in favourite games with your puppy.
 
Remember you re aiming to put money in the bank for your puppy’s future!!

GETTING A SECOND DOG
We often begin to think of adding to our canine family when we get to the adult stage with our first dog and he or she seems the perfect dog!!. You are having lots of fun and you love each other to bits!  Surely it can’t be too much work to add to your canine family or can it?
First, you need to stop and consider what you would need to be able to offer your second dog, so they had the opportunities that your first dog experienced. 
Secondly, what is the real impact on us and what do we need to do differently in those early months.
 


Top five rules of owning a second dog
 
1. Pretend this is your only dog
This is always the most surprising of rules about adding a second dog to your family. Research suggests that second dogs are much more likely to develop a dog-dog aggression problem than ‘only’ dogs in the home.  We often assume, and assumption is the cause of many of the problems we experience when we add a second dog, that this dog will gain social confidence from its buddy at home. We follow that assumption through with thinking that leads us to believe that they will need less socialisation with other dogs outside the home. Sadly, the exact opposite seems to be true. A new canine addition to your home where an older dog already exists means that your puppy needs more socialisation with other dogs, not less.  But most importantly he needs to do this on his own, without his new friend there to support him. He needs to learn his own coping strategies in a wide array of social situations.
2. Cuteness is not a rite of passage
All puppies need to learn how to respect older dogs. If you have a strong-minded, mature bitch already at home, this rarely proves a problem! These kinds of dogs offer you the opportunity to relax a little and let them act like strict Aunts – telling the puppy off when they are out of line. However, it is a different story if you owner an all-tolerant male, or a young and playful female, then you need to take more care and a different approach. Just as children need to learn that they cannot always get their own way, so puppies need to be taught restraint and respect and learn the canine signals that mean ‘back off’. Also continually biting their new bestest friend all over is not doing them a favour!  Cuteness and age do not give them permission to pester an older dog that won’t tell him off. The outcome of this exchange is that your is simply telling your puppy that this is acceptable behaviour with all other dogs – and is going to get him into trouble in the park before he’s too much older.
If your existing dog can’t or won’t tell off the new puppy appropriately, then you must step in and break up the action when it gets too much.
A positive intervention approach needs to be frequent and consistent – and the urgency for your pup to meet less tolerant dogs in the big, bad world is dramatically increased.
One of your main priorities is to not only protect your pup from learning bad habits, but to maintain your older dog’s routine and bond with you as close as possible., Many older dogs are less than happy when a new puppy comes into the home. Unless carefully manged they often find themselves coming second in their owners’ attentions and affections. Maintaining time and contact with your older dog is of the upmost importance as your first dog is the reason your just got another one!!
3. Tough Times
One of the pleasures delights of getting a second dog is that you will be able to enjoy exercise and being out and about together, as a family.  However, it is essential that you get your puppy out for exercise, training and socialisation without your older dog being present and often this does mean walking them, training them and socialising them separately!  This is because you need build your pup’s social confidence as an individual dog – out from under the shadow of their new companion. We have seen many new puppies on the first night of puppy class without their older canine friend and they are nervous and fearful of other dogs.  This is because their pup has an older dog to rely on at home, and that he or she cannot cope without him.
4. Remember your new pup is a one off
We often get another dog because we are utterly addicted to the breed of our first love! Many second-dog owners that we see in puppy classes have chosen to get another dog of the same breed as the first and in many cases, they have returned to the same breeder. We often say to ourselves that this has the advantage that ‘I know what to expect’. But here is the absolute truth about this strategy.  You must treat each dog as an individual – and to try not to compare them against each other, any more than you would compare your children.
If your second dog is of a different breed or type from your first, it is also important to recognise the differences between them. While puppies often do pick up the habits of older dogs that they live with, individual breeds will inevitably develop in ways that they are driven to by their genetic potential. So, if you do choose to get a Terrier after owning a herding breed remember you may have to learn new training skills and ways to motivate you new dog!
5. Play means you need rules
Human sanity can often be sorely tested by the play of two canine companions enjoying each other’s company! Play between dogs is a form of arousal – and as such it can easily tip over the top into aggression and quickly. More practically, but just as important, is the fact that it is also highly enjoyable – even addictive. The consequence of this, is that playing with their new canine buddy may become your new pup’s focus – and that can be to the exclusion of you.  Building a real bond with your new pup, and not just acting as a poor substitute for your other dog is your initial goal. To build a good relationship with a second dog we must overcome the natural laws of social animals where they will choose to play with their own species first. This means making ourselves more important than another dog – so interrupting and even limiting the amount of play they have together is essential. Stairgates make control and management strategies easier.
 
Finally, having two dogs can be a wonderful experience, but only if you treat them as separate entities at the start. Only once your puppy has built a strong bond with you, they have learned to cope with all the daily challenges of our big world and has discovered how to stand on all four paws when meeting other dogs, do you deliver your vision of owning two dogs!

How many times have you had to spell out the 'W' word rather than say it? Every time you say the word 'WALK' or 'WALKIES' you dog has the zoomies and proceeds by careering around the house with you unable to get the lead near the dog! You might even on occasion get knocked over by your dog but certainly it is true that saying the word transforms your  5 stone canine family member into a fuzzball of intense excitement. Sometimes your dog begins to react sooner than the certainty the presence of their lead gives, as they have learnt the sequence of your actions preceding a trip to the local park and beginning to look for your shoes or the coat that is only worn for dog walking. 

Why do dogs love their trips out with us so much that they work out a whole list of clues that they may be about to depart on one? Why does the promise of going out virtually anywhere excite most dogs?  Because it provides them with opportunities that they highly value and are fun such as sniffing, playing, peeing, pooing, exploring , eating an array of gorgeous other poo, meets and greets with other dogs, marking opportunities to leave their scent. These are ALL activities that are not easily or not at all available at home. it is thought also that for domestic dogs outings may be particularly exciting because unlike historically where dogs were much more free ranging, domestic dogs on the whole only go out when they are taken by their family. Their human family might take them to highly enriching environments  they rarely go to such as forests ( the ultimate smell pit for some dogs), beach, lakes,  rivers, picnics, doggie play areas where again there are exciting stimuli present in these areas they don't encounter at home. 

It is often a complete mystery to us owners that we can visit an area again and again  but every time our dogs demonstrates  the same urgency to sniff, run, roll and socialise as on every previous visit. The opportunity to engage in these activities is obviously highly reinforcing for them, although some of them baffle us humans.  Sniffing the neighbour's lawn 100 times a week in the same area must surely be boring!!

So, it might come to us as a light bulb moment that it is not actually the grass that is so enticing but in a world that is mostly smells for dogs, rolling might be a way for your dog to spread it's odours for others to pick up, or to release odours held in that vegetation to collect information about another canine's activities.. Or your dog may love to explore the tactile nature of different grass varieties and hence explores seven different neighbour's  lawns in your street. Some dogs do this and we all know one!  

It is definitely worth a ponder on the ways your dog finds certain activities inherently rewarding and why this may be so. We also need to accept that sometimes we may never truly understand why this is the case. But it can help and explain some of the troublesome behaviours dogs display as well. Sledding breeds such as Huskies, were bred to run and pull, so for them running and pulling may be innately rewarding. Terriers might find hunting around in bushes for small animals innately rewarding , whilst Border Collies and other herding breeds can find chasing moving objects innately rewarding. Dalmatians and Boxers were expected to be engaged in active pursuits for much of the day on a regular basis.

Many dog breeds have historically had jobs that required long periods of intense activities but today's dogs who live with us, have to adapt to less exercise in active pursuits for much of the day that they may have bred for.. Many do and can adapt to less exercise but ignoring their activity history is at our peril.  So when you pick up that lead, or use WALK , the promise of performing an activity they were bred to do results in the zoomies you know  WHY!!!!! 

Puppies come to us with a mouth full of shark teeth!!! When they bite us it hurts! This helps them discover what is alive and what is not and they like to flex them on us!  It is a perfectly normal behaviour and should not be treated as aggression. Puppies use their mouths lots to communicate to their siblings to gain space, food and in play.  However, it is not acceptable for our lovely puppies to mouth us and we need to teach them how to moderate their biting before they lose their puppy teeth at around 18 weeks. In essence your puppy needs to know that biting you hurts. They also need to learn that he cannot use his mouth to get what he wants
 (Please note that this information is suitable for puppies up to 18 weeks old and who still have their deciduous teeth. If your dog is still mouthing or biting after this age please contact us for advice)

So, there are a few rules:

• No rough games with your new puppy.  Do not play rough and tumble games with your puppy or any game where your puppy grabs your hair or skin. Dad's listen!! This is giving your puppy permission to bite people and will set back your efforts
• No teasing or encouragement to bite- EVER
• Prevent your puppy from biting - just don't allow it. There is a responsibility that we as owners have to be aware of our own behaviour and movements around our puppies. Fast, jerky or excitable movements excite our puppy even more and often end in the puppy trying to grab our hands or other limbs.  Consider using a toy as a distraction  if he is thinking about  using his teeth in play. I have advised young children to wear wellingtons for a few days to stop hands and feet teasing! Works a treat! Also teaching your children to become 'statues' with their hands 'stuck' to their sides when puppies gets over excited often helps too.
• Always ask yourself is someone reinforcing this behaviour ? This could be getting cross with the puppy, playing rough games or just squealing and running away from puppy when your puppy starts biting. This is often the case where a household has very young children

There are certain times of the day when a puppy seems to use his teeth more. These may be different for in your home but take a note if it is worse at tea time or when kids come home from school. Your puppy may be over tired, over excited or just over stimulated. You MUST be ultra- calm and next time be prepared with a filled Kong or chew or some interactive feeding toy they can occupy their busy minds with instead.  Stair-gates are very helpful so you can leave your puppy and take all the fun out of the behaviour. Offering an alternative play item instead of you, is a good strategy and don't forget to praise your puppy for interacting with that instead. 

Help is at Hand
Occasionally , puppies that have been allowed to practice biting and mouthing need to understand that there is consequences to their behaviour. If you are going to use this technique make sure you have tried and implemented all the suggestions above and no-one is inadvertently reinforcing the puppy for biting .through play or teasing with hands or feet. 

• As soon as your puppy puts his mouth on you, even in play say quite firmly 'wrong' in a normal voice. Immediately leave the room or put him behind a stair gate . Sometimes it is necessary to keep a soft lead on your puppy whilst in the house, so when you have to move them you don't grab their collar.  I find children can do this technique very easily.
• They should only be isolated form you only  for a few moments and if you find they instantly fall asleep when left this tells you that perhaps they were over-tired and needed to sleep. Remember the time of day for next time!
• Be consistent- It will take many repetitions before your puppy understands that biting results in loss of fun - YOU

Take Note : If your puppy is becoming more excited and bitey over time rather than less you may need extra help for us.  Also, check your puppy's diet as this often can have a dramatic effect on his behaviour - ask your Vet for help or visit The Pet Corner in St Johns,  but remember every puppy is an individual and what works for one may not be the solution for another pup. 

Why Does my Dog Raise His paw? 
We all think that this canine behaviour is so cute  as this is our normal behaviour when our dogs do it. It looks so endearing and immediately engages our attention.
But it is important to consider that what are dogs are actually trying to communicate to us when they do this simple but cute gesture

Canine communication should always be interpreted in the context in which it is offered.  Very often a dog will raise it's paw as his favourite person approaches . This is in anticipation of their arrival and dependent on the breed as active hounds often rush around the visitor until his excitement and  energy die down and then he will want to be stroked. However, in this context the motivation of your dog is to get your attention, and hopefully a cuddle or a stroke!  He will have 'smiling face', soft eyes  and will offer you a face that you easily interpret as a kind and 'love me' one!

However, sometimes it can be a indication that your dog is unsure of something ahead on his walk. Perhaps he is considering whether he should move forward or not and is looking at his options.

It may also be a learned behaviour because you have smiled back at him whilst he raised his paw and he has connected the two together! Clever dog and if it works and he enjoys extra cuddles he may repeat the paw lift many times in the future.

Also , teaching a 'paw' or a beg'  you may find that your dog uses a 'paw lift' to get something he wants because that is what has previously 'paid' for him . If you find that this is happening stop teaching these two commands and teach a good 'sit' or down' in a similar manner to which you taught the 'paw' . it is a very nice way for you dog to learn 'please' rather than perhaps 'pawing' at you which can sometimes can hurt you or a child or an elderly relative. Teaching and rewarding an alternative behaviour behaviour like a 'sit' works very well as a 'please' cue for most dogs which impresses friends and family too!.